Topics
Line
The basic part of any design is formed by lines.The eye tends to follow the direction of the line in a dress design or in the fabric of the dress. Lines may be horizontal, vertical, straight, curved, diagonal, radiating, down-sweeping, up-sweeping, or angular, and they are capable of creating interesting illusions.
- Horizontal- gives the impression of shorter and heavier.
- Vertical – gives the impression of height.
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Color
Color is a radiant energy loosely termed light that produces sensation in our eyes. The color of the dress easily attracts the client’s attention and becomes her basis in choosing her apparel.
a. Hue is the other name for color. It is the particular shade of color that differentiates one from another.
Primary colors are red, blue and yellow. They are the basic colors where different colors originated.
Secondary colors are combinations of primary colors such that yellow and blue produces green, red and blue produces violet, red and yellow produces orange.
Intermediate colors stem from the combination of primary and secondary colors.
Tertiary colors are obtained by mixing two secondary colors.
Neutral colors are the white, black and gray and are predominantly grayish and brownish.
a. Value is the lightness or darkness of color. White added to a color will produce tints. Black added to a color will produce shades.
b. Intensity or chroma is the chroma of a color corresponds to its purity and saturation in a color other than black, white and gray.
Basic Psychological Effects of Colors on People
White makes us feel clean and fresh. White connotes innocence and purity.
Red makes us feel bold and daring. Red connotes passion and bravery.
Yellow makes us feel joyful. It also connotes cowardice and treachery.
Blue represents truth, loyalty, calmness and wisdom. Deep blue could also make us feel depressed.
Green suggests abundance as this is the color of plants, but green could also suggest jealousy.
Purple is the color of royalty, but it could symbolize suffering.
Orange is a warm color but suggests deliciousness and ripeness. Eateries, especially fastfoods, use orange with a touch of green to stimulate appetite.
Black suggests strength and dignity and is usually worn for formal evening affairs. Black also symbolizes mourning and death.
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Form
Form refers to the shape of an object as determined by line. In costume design the silhouette is the term used to describe form which may repeat, may contrast, or be transitional.
When the lines of a dress repeat the form of the body too closely, they produce an uncomfortable , restricting effect. At the other extreme, a silhouette which is completely opposed to the lines of the figure distorts rather than enhances the total design. A design suggests the contours of the body.
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Texture
The surface quality of a fabric comprises its texture. It appeals strongly to the sense of touch, whether it is coarse, fine, smooth, rough, wrinkled, sleek, glossy, slippery. Textures are affected by weave, finishes, and the nature of the fibers and yarns used in weaving. Textures as well as lines can create illusions, one must choose textures for clothes that will harmonize with the over-all design.
Texture affects color. A soft wool will give a quite different effect from the gloss and sheen of the satin in the evening dress.
Texture also affects the apparent size of the design. Bulky, rough fabrics tend to increase the size of a design, whereas smooth fabrics decrease it.
A rough texture also dulls color, but a shiny, smooth texture intensifies the hue. Textures used together in a design should be harmonious. Some contrast is desirable to add interest, but too great a contrast creates disunity. A velvet skirt worn with a silk crepe blouse combines textures consistent in purpose. The same velvet skirt worn with a cotton seercucker blouse is unthinkable.
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Shape
Clothes reveal or disguise the natural body contour or shape. Choosing the right clothing shapes will make the person more flattering. Wide, full shapes clothes will make you look larger while trim, compact dress will make you look smaller. Straight, tubular shapes will make the wearer look taller while fitted clothes will reveal the natural body contours. The following are some of the figure types excerpt from the book of L. Belle Pollard, Experiences with Clothing showing the becoming designs and unbecoming designs to different figure types.
Figure Type | Becoming Designs | Unbecoming Designs |
---|---|---|
Short-Thin | Princess lines Full-length coats Short and bolero jackets Narrow, matching belts Skirts with knife pleats, easy gores Delicate, dainty fabrics One-color costumes |
Clinging styles and fabrics Large prints Large accessories Long waistline |
Short-Stout | Vertical or diagonal lines Simple designs Easy-fitting clothes Full-length coats Narrow, matching belts Set-in sleeves Dull surfaced fabrics One-color costumes |
Ruffles, bows, frills Full or very straight skirts Full sleeves Broad collars, wide lapels Wide or contrasting belts Bulky or large figured fabrics |
Tall-Thin | Contrasting colors in yokes, blouses, and skirts Bulky fabrics, plaids, checks Wide belts, patch pockets Dolman, push-up, or full-sleeves Easy, bloused waistlines Circular, pleated, or gathered skirts Double breasted styles Full or boxy jackets |
Princess styles Small accessories Shiny, clinging fabrics Vertical stripes Long U necklines |
Tall-Stout | Simple designs, little detail Balance or horizontal and vertical lines Easy fitting, straight and slightly flared skirts Three-quarter, set-in sleeves Dull fabrics |
Frilly clothes Large sleeves Contrasting and wide belts Bulky fabrics Small accessories |
Average | Can wear most good designs; specific figure variations may limit. |
Design for Individual Face and Figure Variations
Figure Variation | Becoming Designs | Unbecoming Designs |
---|---|---|
Narrow Hips | Full, gathered, or pleated skirts Bulky fabrics Overblouses |
Tight-fitting skirts at and just above hips |
Large Hips | Broad shoulders Skirts with free and easy fit and slight flare Bodice bloused above waistline Dark colors below waist |
Tight, big belts Skirts made of plaids or bias stripes Sleeves with fullness at hip line Horizontal detail at hips |
Thin Legs and Feet | Full skirts of moderate length
Light hose
|
Uneven hem line |
Large Bust | Dark colors above waist Skirt with flare Soft fullness over bust V-Neckline Large accessories Straight coats and jackets |
Broad shoulders Bulky or shiny fabrics Snug belts Fussy detail, bows, pockets Tight, narrow skirts Sweaters |
Short Waist | No definite waistline Narrow belts V-shaped necklines Vertical tucks Low collars |
Contrasting color in blouse and skirt Wide collars Horizontal trim |
Thick Waistline | Princess lines Fullness above waist Interest at neckline |
Wide or bright belts Short skirts |
Sway Back | Loosely-fitted, bodice or dress slightly bloused above waistline Long jackets Two-piece dresses Dresses with peplums |
Tight-fitting skirts Princess lines |
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Pattern or Print of Fabric
Pattern or print of fabric is dress materials produced by interlacing lengthwise and crosswise threads (weaving) knitting, and other methods of construction. Characteristics of fabrics that affect their handling are the fiber, the type of construction, the weight, the width, the design, the texture, and the finished fabric.
Most fabrics used in sewing are woven; some are knitted, and a few are pressed or bonded.
- Woven means those made by interlacing two sets of yarns.
- Grain is direction of the yarn.
- Lengthwise threads form the foundation of the fabric and are the stronger threads. This makes them firmer and less stretchy than crosswise threads.
- Selvage refers to the two finished edges of a woven fabric that are strong and firm. When used on straight seam, do not require any seam finish.
- Crosswise threads run across the fabric from selvage to selvage.
- Knitted refers to the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns which form a succession of connected loops causing the stretchy quality of knits.
- Pressed or bonded refers to non-woven fabrics like felt and pelon have no grain. Pelon is used for interfacings.
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